The Lunch Belle

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Review: Brunch at Mesa Coyoacan

Restaurant: Mesa Coyoacan
Cuisine: Mexican
Location: 372 Graham Ave. (between Skillman Ave. & Conselyea St.), Brooklyn

Being that my Meetup group, the NY Mexican Food Lovers, had not yet traveled outside of Manhattan for our monthly brunch, I decided that it was high time to cross the East River. 

Mesa Coyoacan, a Mexican restaurant in Williamsburg (Brooklyn), had been on my "must try" list for a number of months.  My interest in this establishment was especially piqued after having read that the kitchen used grass-fed and organic meats, all while staying true to authentic recipes.  And I don't know about you, but after watching one too many documentaries - ahem, Food Inc. - I'd prefer, if I'm going to indulge in animal protein, that it was humanely raised/fed and antibiotic-free.  Just sayin'...

MC (Mesa Coyoacan) is conveniently located just steps away from the Graham Avenue subway stop.  Once inside the long, narrow space, you will find yourself transported south of the border.  Think:  wrought iron, unfinished woods, hand-painted tiles, and Mother Mary figurines/art surrounded by twinkling votive candles.

Although Menupages states that MC doesn't open until noon, we (Rob, Shawna, and myself) found the front door unlocked and a couple of tables occupied at a quarter 'til.  Interesting.

We were warmly greeted and seated by a hipsterly waiter-cum-host-cum-busboy-cum bar tender.  Once settled, we received beverage and brunch menus.

Before the young, multi-hat-wearing fellow could get away, we made sure to inquire - and order - one of MC's tequila-based or mezcal-based margaritas.  While Shawna went with mezcal/pineapple and Rob, the jalapeno-infused tequila/strawberry, I chose to go slightly more traditional:  tequila base with lime and hibiscus (or, "Jamaica," in Spanish).

While I would have preferred it to be sweeter, my margarita had no lack of robust flavor.  It was almost perfect.

Since RSVP's for our monthly brunches can be a bit unreliable, the three of us chose to numb our stomach pangs with an order of tostados, guacamole, and the salsa sampler while waiting for the remaining attendees.

I was pleased to find - and taste - that the tostados were handmade.  Salty, crunchy, pillowy, and perfectly able to withstand a heavy dollop of just-smashed guacamole without splitting in half.  Priceless.  And, speaking of guacamole, the chunky, green dip was laced with chopped tomatoes, white onions, cilantro, and just enough salt to accentuate every ingredient.

I'm not sure which of the two accompaniments my tostados saw more of, the guac or the salsa sampler.  The latter included a bowl of each:  salsa verde, habanero, mole, and ranchero.  I will say, though, that out of the four, the ranchero blend was my favorite. 

As if all of the above weren't enough, the three of us chose to split an order of grilled fish tacos.  It was decided that, upon receiving the tacos, we would then place our entree orders.  Whew!

Handmade, 3" corn tortillas were delicately topped with grilled tilapia and a house-made pickled slaw.  Lime quarters accompanied.

After a spritz of lime, we each took our first bite.  I was pleased to find that the fish was incredibly fresh and very well-seasoned, and I loved how the tangy and crunchy slaw added both texture and bite.  What a delightful and healthy option/alternative to the stereotypically greasy, nutrient deficient taco!

I wasn't sure how much more food and drink I could handle...until I was presented with my entree plate of green cheese enchiladas.

Surrounded by a moat of creamy salsa verde (not sure how it was so creamy...maybe the sauce was made with sour cream?) stood three tightly rolled, Oaxaca cheese-topped and stuffed enchiladas.  A dollop of black refried beans, pierced by two tostados, nestled up against one corner of the artfully-presented plate.

Since Oaxaca cheese isn't the easiest to melt, I wasn't sure whether my fork would cut in to a cold, solid piece (of cheese) but, fortunately, it was warm and ooey-gooey.  Success!

To conclude:  despite a couple of service issues (due to the fact that our poor waiter soon became stretched too thin), the three of us really enjoyed our meal, margaritas, and experience at MC.  Plus, what's better than a boozy Mexican brunch on a Saturday afternoon, anyways?  Nothing.

Until we eat again,

Lindsay, The Lunch Belle